2013 Scion FR-S Key Replacement

2013 FR-S key specs

Most FR-S coupes start with a turn-key ignition. The factory key is a four-button remote-head key, with lock, unlock, panic and trunk buttons, on a blade with Toyota's TR47 keyway. Inside is a Toyota G transponder rather than a Subaru chip. Replacement keys for 2013-2015 cars are sold under FCC ID HYQ12BBY, and 2016 cars under HYQ12BEL. Limited editions, including the 2013 10 Series and the 2014 Release Series 1.0, have push-button start and a four-button smart fob listed under FCC ID HYQ14ACX, so we check which system your car has.

What's specific to the 2013 FR-S

2013 was the first model year of the FR-S ZN6 (first generation). Early-production cars sometimes use different part numbers than later ones, so for a 2013 Scion FR-S we confirm the exact key from the VIN or the old key's FCC ID before cutting anything. At roughly 13 years old, a 2013 Scion FR-S has usually seen real wear. Ignition and door cylinders on high-mileage cars wear along with the key, so we cut new keys to factory code rather than copying a worn key. Fob cases crack, buttons wear through and solder joints loosen at this age, so a new shell or a replacement remote often beats repairing the old one. Many have changed hands more than once, so erasing keys you can't account for is worth doing during the visit.

If a newly cut key turns the 2013 FR-S's ignition but the engine cranks and dies, the transponder isn't recognized yet; that's a programming step, not a cutting problem, and it's handled at the car.

Key options for the 2013 Scion FR-S

• Remote head key. Remote-head keys take a beating. The rubber button pad wears through, the plastic housing splits at the seam, and the blade can snap right at the head after years of being used as a pry tool or hanging from a heavy key ring. When the electronics inside are still healthy, we can often move the circuit board and chip into a new shell and cut a fresh blade to your code, which keeps the existing programming intact. If the board is cracked or water-damaged, a new key is the honest answer. Either way, for your 2013 FR-S, we open the old key and show you what's broken before recommending anything.
• Smart proximity key (push-to-start). A smart or proximity key lets a 2013 Scion FR-S open when you touch the door handle and start with a push of a button while the fob stays in your pocket or bag. Antennas in the doors and cabin send out a low-frequency wake-up signal; the fob answers on a higher radio frequency with an encrypted reply, and the car only allows a start once it confirms the fob is inside. When the fob battery is weak, that conversation fails, which is why most designs include a backup: hold the fob against the start button or set it in a designated pocket. The owner's manual shows where, and it's worth checking before you need it.
• Transponder (chip) key. Transponder chips come in families, such as Texas Instruments 4C and 4D, Philips 46, Megamos 48 and the newer 128-bit AES types, and a Scion FR-S only accepts the one its immobilizer was built around. That's why a hardware-store blank that looks right often won't start the car. We match the blank to the vehicle's chip and keyway before cutting. One more practical note: the chip lives in the plastic head, and when that head cracks, the chip can fall out or shift away from the antenna. If the car starts some days and not others, a damaged head is a frequent reason, and replacing the key before it quits entirely costs less than an all-keys-lost visit.

How the Scion immobilizer works on the FR-S

Scion was Toyota's youth brand from the 2004 through 2016 model years, so most Scion key systems are Toyota systems underneath, and the last few came from partners. What surprises owners is how uneven the immobilizer picture is. The tC is the Scion where a transponder immobilizer is the norm: a Texas 4D-67 chip through 2010, then Toyota's 80-bit G chip from about 2011. The low-priced boxes and hatchbacks are different. Parts catalogs list their remote keys in versions with and without anti-theft, and installer reports say many US xAs, xBs, xDs and iQs have no immobilizer at all, so a plain cut key starts them. Canadian-market versions should read a chip, because Canada has required immobilizers on new cars since 2007. The final three Scions broke the pattern. The Subaru-built FR-S uses a Toyota G chip in a four-button remote-head key, with a smart fob on its push-button editions. The iA is a Mazda2 sedan with Mazda's push-button smart key and NXP Hitag Pro fob, and the iM, a European Auris, uses a 128-bit Toyota H (8A) flip key. Because the same badge hides such different systems, we start every Scion job by checking your key and the car itself.

• FR-S remote-head keys carry a Toyota G chip even though Subaru built the car.
• The 2016 remote-head key, FCC ID HYQ12BEL, is also listed for the 2017 Toyota 86, the FR-S renamed after Scion closed.
• Toyota's 2014 service bulletin on immobilizer and smart key resets names the FR-S and requires a dealer-issued pass-code, which is why all-keys-lost takes longer.

Programming a 2013 FR-S key

The chip in an FR-S key is registered through the OBD-II port with equipment that supports this Subaru-built Toyota platform, and the remote buttons are added during the same visit. Adding a spare with a working key is routine. All-keys-lost needs a security pass-code exchange, as Toyota's own reset procedure does; aftermarket tools can handle many of these cars, but it takes longer and an occasional car may need the dealer. Push-button editions add smart key steps. The blade is cut by code or decoded from the door lock.

Spare keys are routine. All-keys-lost takes a pass-code-protected procedure, and push-button editions add smart key steps, so we confirm by VIN that our equipment covers your car before the visit.

Lost every key to your FR-S?

1. Gather your documents and the VIN. Find your registration or title and a government photo ID in the same name. Note the VIN, which is printed on the driver's side of the dashboard and usually on your insurance card. If the paperwork is locked in the car, tell us; we'll open the vehicle first and check it there.
2. Get into the vehicle without damage. If the car is locked, we open it with non-destructive tools such as an inflatable wedge and a long-reach rod, or by picking the door lock. Some vehicles need a careful approach to avoid triggering the alarm, which can interfere with programming later.
3. Originate a new key from the car. Originating a key means building it without a sample. The door lock usually reveals most of the cuts; any it doesn't are worked out by test-cutting and trying the ignition or a second lock. The finished blade should feel like a factory key, not a forced fit.
4. Program the key to the immobilizer. Next, the new key is introduced to the car's security system. Many vehicles allow this through the OBD-II port with a PIN or security procedure. Some all-keys-lost cases require reading a module on the bench, and a few platforms only allow dealer programming, which we'll tell you up front.
5. Erase missing keys and add a spare. Once the car starts, we remove the lost keys from memory wherever the system allows, so they can't start the engine if someone finds them. Making a second key during the same visit costs much less than a repeat all-keys-lost call down the road.

Why a spare key pays for itself

• When you sell or trade in the vehicle, buyers and dealers expect two keys. A missing key can come up during an appraisal or a private-sale negotiation, so having both on hand keeps the conversation about the car, not about what it will cost the next owner to replace one.
• Some vehicles make it hard to add a key once you're down to one. Certain immobilizer systems let an owner program an extra key on-board only when two working keys are present, so a second key preserves the easy options for later and avoids a full reset.
• Electronics fail without warning. A fob dropped on concrete, run through the washing machine or soaked at the pool can quit for good. With a second programmed key, that's an annoyance you fix on your own schedule, not a stranded car that needs attention today.

Dealer or mobile locksmith?

Dealers have one clear advantage: direct access to the manufacturer's own systems. Some newer vehicles tie key programming to online authorization that only a dealer can use, and certain all-keys-lost situations on specific platforms still require it. A good locksmith knows where those lines are. Where we can do the job, we use professional programming equipment that talks to the same immobilizer and keyless systems through the OBD-II port, and in many cases the result is identical: a properly registered key that starts the car. Where we can't, we can often still help by opening the vehicle, cutting a mechanical blade from code, or helping you gather what the dealer will ask for so that visit goes smoothly. For your Scion FR-S, ask us directly and you'll get a plain answer.

FR-S key battery

Battery details for the 2013 FR-S: CR2016 (remote-head key). Swap cells one at a time and match each one exactly; if a key still fails with a fresh battery, the board, buttons or programming may be the problem, which we can test on site.

How the job works

1. Identify the exact key your FR-S uses. Every job starts with the VIN, the trim and a look at any key you still have. From those we confirm the keyway, the transponder or smart-key chip, the remote frequency, the FCC ID and the button layout. Two Scion FR-S keys that look identical can carry different electronics, so this step keeps the wrong part from ever reaching the car.
2. Verify ownership before any work. California holds licensed locksmiths responsible for knowing whose car they're making keys for. We record your name, the VIN and the plate on a work order. If you aren't the registered owner, you'll need the owner's written authorization along with your own photo ID before we begin.
3. Get the key code or decode the lock. If you still have a working key, we can read its cuts directly and check them against the factory depths for the Scion keyway. A worn key gets corrected back to spec during this step, so the new key turns crisply instead of reproducing years of wear in a fresh piece of metal.
4. Cut the blade on-site. Cutting happens right beside your car. For a smart key, that means the emergency blade hidden inside the fob; for a transponder or remote-head key, it's the main blade you'll use every day. We deburr the cuts and check the fit in each lock so nothing binds or sticks later on.
5. Program the chip, remote or smart key. With the blade done, we connect to the OBD-II port and register the new key with the immobilizer. Depending on the Scion system, this may involve a security PIN, a timed waiting period, or on-board button sequences for the remote. On some vehicles we clone a working key's chip instead, when that's the more reliable path.
6. Test everything and clear out old keys. The last step is a short walkthrough. We show you how many keys the car now recognizes, point out the dead-fob start method for your vehicle, and hand you an itemized receipt. If a spare makes sense, it's simplest to add it during this same visit while the equipment is already connected.

What affects the price of an FR-S key

• The type of key. The biggest factor is technology. A plain mechanical key is a cutting job only. A transponder key adds a chip and programming. Remote-head and flip keys add a circuit board, and a proximity fob for a push-button Scion FR-S is the most involved of all, both in the part itself and in the programming.
• Factory or aftermarket parts. Some owners want an exact factory match; others just want a dependable key that starts the car. Both are reasonable choices. The part you pick changes the quote, so we lay out the options side by side, with the trade-offs in fit, button feel and long-term durability, before you decide.
• All keys lost or adding a key. Adding a key while a working one is in hand is the simpler job. With every key gone, we may have to open the car, decode a lock to originate the cuts, and run a longer programming routine, so all-keys-lost work takes more time and costs more.
• Programming complexity and security access. Two cars with similar-looking keys can program very differently. Newer platforms often guard key programming behind encrypted access or paid credentials, while older systems allow straightforward OBD-II pairing. We check the exact procedure for your VIN before quoting, so the number reflects the real work involved.

Call (951) 903-3193 with your VIN and the keys you still have, and we'll quote the job before any work starts.

Common Scion key problems

• Inland Empire heat shortens the life of the CR2016 cells used in most Scion remote-head keys. If range drops to a few feet or the buttons work only some of the time, replace the battery before assuming the remote has lost its programming.
• Scion remote-head keys often crack where the blade meets the plastic head. The circuit board usually survives, so a new shell with a freshly cut blade can fix it, provided the transponder chip moves across with the board.
• Toyota marks chipped blades with a stamped dot (4D-67), G or H near the head. Replacement remote-head keys for the tC, xB, xD and iQ come in chipped and chipless versions that look alike, so match the stamp and FCC ID before buying one online.

Tips from a mobile locksmith

• Make the spare before you need it. Adding a key while one still works is quicker and less expensive than starting from nothing, and it keeps the simpler programming options available. Good moments are right after buying the car, or as soon as one of your two keys goes missing.
• On any vehicle with a turn-key ignition, keep the key ring light. A heavy cluster of keys, tools and charms swings with every bump and slowly wears the ignition wafers and the key itself. When the key starts to stick or needs a wiggle to turn, deal with it early, before it stops turning entirely.
• Every so often, use the mechanical blade in the driver's door lock. Cylinders that go years without a key can seize from dust and dried grease, and you won't find out until the day the fob dies and the blade is your only way in. A small shot of dry lubricant keeps the lock ready.

Proof of ownership

Making car keys is regulated work in California. Locksmiths are licensed and overseen by the Bureau of Security and Investigative Services under the Locksmith Act, Business and Professions Code section 6980 and following, and Julian's Locksmith holds company license LCO7891. Verification protects you more than anyone: a locksmith who will make a key for whoever asks will also make one for someone who wants your car. We record your name, the vehicle and its VIN on a work order, and we politely decline jobs where ownership can't be established. You can look up our license at search.dca.ca.gov.

Need a 2013 Scion FR-S key?

The quickest route to a working key for a 2013 Scion FR-S starts with a short phone call. Dial (951) 903-3193, share the VIN and where the car is parked in Southern California, and we'll tell you whether it's an on-site job, a dealer job, or a mix of both. No pressure and no surprise charges, just a straight plan.