Rekey Door Locks in Santa Ana: Which Doors, Which Locks

Rekey Door Locks in Santa Ana: what to expect

A fresh set of pins can't fix a door that fights its own lock. Doors move: wood swells during winter rains and shrinks again in dry heat, hinge screws loosen, and houses settle, so a strike plate that lined up perfectly when the lock went in may now sit a little high or low. The result is a deadbolt you have to push, pull or lift to throw, and that sideways pressure wears the cylinder, tailpiece and bolt far faster than normal use. So when we rekey door locks, we check each door's operation before and after. We look for full bolt throw, a latch that catches without a slam, hinge screws that bite, and a strike held by long screws reaching the framing. The door from the garage into the house deserves special attention. In many California homes it has spring hinges or a closer so it shuts and latches on its own, and a freshly rekeyed lock does little good if that door drifts open. Small adjustments made during the same visit usually settle these problems for good.

Work included on a typical visit

• Handlesets and gripsets. On a typical handleset, the grip and thumb latch below are only for opening the door; the key works the deadbolt section on top. So rekeying a handleset usually involves one cylinder, not two. We remove the interior trim, slide out the deadbolt cylinder, re-pin it and confirm the thumb latch still releases smoothly afterward.
• Mortise and rim cylinders. Rim cylinders are the flat-faced cylinders on surface-mounted deadlocks, older back doors and many gate locks. Two long screws inside hold the cylinder, and a flat tailpiece reaches into the lock case. They rekey like any pin tumbler cylinder; we just confirm the tailpiece length suits the door's thickness before reinstalling it.
• Garage entry and garage side doors. The door between the garage and the house matters more than people think. Many households leave the overhead door up while they're in the yard or driveway, which makes that inner door a front door in practice. We rekey its knob and deadbolt to the house key and check that the door still closes and latches on its own.
• Patio sliders and French doors. French doors and many fiberglass entry doors use multipoint locks that throw bolts into the head and sill as well as the side jamb. Their keys run a euro profile cylinder. Rather than re-pinning, we normally replace that cylinder with one keyed to your house key, measured to the right length so it doesn't stick out past the trim.
• Security screen and storm doors. Storm doors use lighter latch hardware with a small keyed handle, often a wafer lock that can't be re-pinned. If the storm door needs to be on your key, we look for a keyed replacement handle that fits the door's hole pattern. If not, many owners simply leave the storm door unkeyed and rely on the entry door behind it.

Local factors in Santa Ana

Condos and townhomes often split responsibility: the owner controls the unit's entry door, while the HOA handles common doors, pool gates and garage gates. Before we rekey door locks on a condo, glance at your CC&Rs for rules on exterior hardware finishes or management key access. Most allow rekeying without fuss since nothing visible changes. An attached garage with an interior door into the unit deserves its own lock check too.

Older homes in Santa Ana often have a front door lock older than anyone living there: a mortise lock with a painted-over set screw, a rim lock on the back door, or knobs in keyways that few shops still stock blanks for. Most of these can be re-pinned if the lock body is sound. Where a part is obsolete, we'll offer a replacement cylinder or modern hardware keyed to match, and explain plainly why that door needs it.

Apartment door locks follow the lease. Renters should get the landlord's written approval before any door is rekeyed, and many leases require giving management a copy of the key. Landlords handling a turnover usually want the entry deadbolt and knob rekeyed while mailbox and common-area keys stay with management. We'll rekey door locks inside the unit, cut keys for both tenant and owner, and note the change for your records.

Situations this covers

• Consider a back door deadbolt that only throws if you pull the door toward you first. The owner has done that for years and figures a rekey will cure it. With the cylinder out, though, the bolt still binds against the strike, which proves the lock isn't the problem. The fix is a strike adjustment and longer screws during the same visit, and afterward the new key turns with a fingertip.
• Imagine French doors to a backyard in Washington Square with a multipoint lock and a euro cylinder that takes its own odd key. The owners want those doors on the house key. We'd measure the cylinder from its center cam to each face, supply a euro cylinder of matching length keyed to the house, and swap it in. The handles and the multipoint gear inside the door stay untouched.
• For example, a homeowner off SR-22 asks us to rekey door locks including the patio slider, whose key went missing years ago. On inspection, the slider's cylinder is a wafer design that can't be re-pinned. Rather than charging for a pointless attempt, we'd show them why, then offer a keyed replacement that fits the slider's cutout or a sturdy foot lock that secures it from inside.
• Imagine a 1950s bungalow with its original mortise lock on a solid wood front door. The set screw is hidden under several coats of paint, and the cylinder may never have been out of the door. We'd score the paint, back the screw out, and unthread the cylinder slowly so the threads in the lock body survive. The re-pinned cylinder goes back in with a light shot of dry lubricant.

From your call to the finished job

1. Tell us which doors and what's on them. A quick photo of each lock helps more than any description. Send pictures of the outside face of each knob, deadbolt or handleset and of the keys you use now. From those we can usually identify the brand, keyway and cylinder type and give you a much tighter quote over the phone.
2. Confirm you're authorized. Verification protects you more than it protects us. The same rule that has you showing ID also stops a stranger from having your locks rekeyed while you're at work. It takes a minute, and we do it every time, including for a single-door job on a quiet afternoon.
3. Check each door before touching the lock. We look at the strike plate, hinge screws, latch alignment and the gap around the door. A door that has dropped a little on its hinges drags the bolt across the strike, and no amount of re-pinning cures that. We point out anything we'd adjust and add it to the quote as a separate line.
4. Re-pin each cylinder, one door at a time. We work one door at a time so the house stays secure. The cylinder comes out, the plug is pushed out with a follower so the springs and driver pins stay put, and new key pins are set to the new key's cuts. Old pins are discarded, not reused.
5. Test from both sides. Each rekeyed lock is tested with the door open and again with it closed, from outside with the key and inside with the thumbturn. We also try one of your old keys to confirm it no longer turns. Only then does the next door come apart.
6. Hand over keys and a door list. You get the agreed number of keys, and we suggest counting them in front of us. We also leave a simple list of which doors take which key, useful later when a cleaner, contractor or relative asks for access and you need to decide what to hand over.

What affects the cost

• How many doors and cylinders. Many homes turn out to have more keyed cylinders than the owner remembers once the garage entry, the side door, the screen door and the gate are counted. Getting that number right on the phone lets us quote accurately and avoids finding three more locks after we've arrived.
• Whether you have working keys. If a door has sat unlocked or unused for years because its key is gone, mention it when you call. We can usually open and re-pin it, but we price that door separately so you can decide whether getting it back on a key is worth it to you.
• Door adjustments and small parts. Adjusting a strike plate, adding longer screws or tightening loose hinges adds a little time and occasionally a part, such as a reinforced strike. These fixes often matter as much as the rekey itself, because a door that binds will wear out a freshly pinned cylinder.

Every job gets a clear quote before any work starts. Call (951) 903-3193 with the details and we'll tell you what to expect for your situation in Santa Ana.

Mistakes to avoid

• Rekeying only the deadbolt and forgetting the knob. Many front doors have two keyed cylinders, and if the knob still takes the old key, anyone holding it can walk in whenever the deadbolt isn't thrown. Rekey both, or swap the knob for a passage set with no keyhole at all.
• Buying a DIY rekey kit for the wrong brand. Kits are keyway-specific, and the pins, springs and follower in a Kwikset kit won't help with a Schlage cylinder. Even with the right kit, one slipped follower can launch drivers and springs across the floor and leave the door unusable.
• Hiring whoever answers first from an online listing without checking for a license. California requires locksmith companies to be licensed through BSIS. Ours is LCO7891, and you can confirm it at search.dca.ca.gov. A legitimate locksmith also gives you a price before touching any door.

Practical tips before you call

• Clear a path to each door, especially the garage entry and the slider. Boxes stacked against a garage door or a couch pushed up to a slider slow the work and make it hard to test the door's swing. Ten minutes of moving things keeps the visit efficient.
• Skip the spray oil before we arrive. Household lubricants leave a film that collects dust in the pins, and a cylinder soaked in oil is messier to re-pin. If a lock is stiff, leave it alone; we'll clean it properly and finish with a dry lubricant made for locks.
• Hold on to the key code or the first key we cut. Copies made from copies drift a little each time, and eventually a duplicate won't turn smoothly. A key cut to the code is accurate, so treat it as your master copy and make future duplicates from it.
• Gather every key you own, including the strays in the kitchen drawer. A key you can't place might fit the screen door or the side gate, and having a working key makes each lock faster to rekey. Keys that fit nothing get set aside, and you can toss them once the job is done.

Getting to Santa Ana

Santa Ana is about 53 miles from our San Bernardino base, roughly 57 minutes in light traffic via I-215 South through Colton and Grand Terrace to SR-91 West in Riverside, SR-91 West through Corona and Santa Ana Canyon. When you call, you get an arrival estimate based on where the technician is and the traffic at that moment.

Stuck on the shoulder or in a parking lot along First Street? Get somewhere safe, turn on your hazards, and give us the nearest exit or business so we can find the car without guessing.

About Santa Ana: Santa Ana was founded in 1869, when William H. Spurgeon laid out a townsite on land obtained from descendants of Jose Antonio Yorba, and it incorporated on June 1, 1886.

Planning a rekey in Santa Ana?

Call (951) 903-3193 and tell us how many doors you want on the new key and the brand of the locks if you know it. We'll quote the rekey before any work starts.