Automotive locksmith
2013 Land Rover LR2 Key Replacement
Short answer: The 2013 Land Rover LR2 belongs to the LR2 L359 facelift and uses a smart proximity key with push-button start. Its immobilizer chip: Hitag Pro (ID49). We can usually add spare keys on site; some situations, such as all keys lost on certain trims, need extra steps or a dealer-supplied part. Julian's Locksmith cuts and programs LR2 keys on site; call (951) 903-3193 with your VIN for a quote.

Not every car key call starts with a lost key. Plenty start with one that's falling apart: a Land Rover LR2 remote whose buttons no longer click, a shell split along the seam, a blade that bends a little more every time it goes into the ignition, or a fob that only works when it's pressed against the glass. Those are all fixable without waiting on a dealer. In Southern California, Julian's Locksmith can swap a worn shell, cut a fresh blade to the factory code instead of copying the wear, or replace the key outright and program it to your 2013 LR2. We look at what you have first and tell you honestly whether a repair or a new key makes more sense.
2013 LR2 key specs
| Generation | L359 facelift, 2013–2015 |
|---|---|
| Ignition | Push-button start |
| Key types | Smart proximity key (push-to-start) |
| Transponder / chip | Hitag Pro (ID49) |
| Key blade | HU101 |
| Key battery | CR2032 |
| Locksmith support | Spares yes; some cases need extra steps |
For 2013 the LR2 switched to the five-button proximity fob used by the Evoque, LR4 and Range Rover of the period, listed in aftermarket catalogs as KOBJTF10A, with a CR2032 battery and a hidden HU101 emergency blade. The start button stays on the dash. Docking fobs from 2008-2012 trucks will not work here, and these newer fobs will not program to the earlier LR2 either, so an online listing that covers every LR2 year deserves a second look.
What's specific to the 2013 LR2
2013 was the first model year of the LR2 L359 facelift. Early-production cars sometimes use different part numbers than later ones, so for a 2013 Land Rover LR2 we confirm the exact key from the VIN or the old key's FCC ID before cutting anything. The key looks similar to the 2012 model's, but the chip moved from Hitag 2 (ID46) to Hitag Pro (ID49), so an older key is not a substitute.
At roughly 13 years old, a 2013 Land Rover LR2 has usually seen real wear. Fob cases crack, buttons wear through and solder joints loosen at this age, so a new shell or a replacement remote often beats repairing the old one. Many have changed hands more than once, so erasing keys you can't account for is worth doing during the visit. Smart-key cars like the 2013 LR2 can be targeted with relay attacks that extend the fob's signal from inside your home, so keep fobs away from exterior walls or in a signal-blocking pouch, and have any missing fob erased from the car.
Key options for the 2013 Land Rover LR2
- Smart proximity key (push-to-start). Proximity keys bring a security trade-off worth understanding. Because the fob is always listening, thieves with relay equipment can stretch its signal from inside your house to the car in the driveway. Keeping the fob away from exterior walls, or in a signal-blocking pouch, closes that gap, and some fobs offer a sleep mode described in the owner's manual. If a smart key for your 2013 Land Rover LR2 is lost or stolen, programming a replacement is the moment to delete the missing fob from the car's memory. And be wary of used fobs from online sellers: a lot of them are locked to the vehicle they came from and can't be reprogrammed to yours.
How the Land Rover immobilizer works on the LR2
Land Rover passed from BMW to Ford in 2000 and from Ford to Tata in 2008, and its key systems changed with each era. The P38A Range Rover, Discovery Series II and first Freelander use Rover-era body electronics with a metal key and a separate remote handset. The 2003-2005 Range Rover carried BMW-derived electronics and a BMW-style key. Under Ford, the LR3, the first Range Rover Sport and the 2006-2009 Range Rover moved to a switchblade key with an ID46 transponder and an HU101 blade, while the LR2 used a dash-slot smart fob. From about 2010, push-button start and proximity fobs spread across the lineup, built around Hitag Pro (ID49) transponders and a keyless vehicle module (KVM) that works beside the body control module. A newer fob family arrived around 2018, JLR has tightened module security repeatedly since, and some recent vehicles add ultra-wideband ranging to stop relay theft. Several models mixed key types within one model year, so the build date, the key in your hand and whether a module is locked matter more than the badge on the tailgate.
- The 2013 update replaced the 3.2-liter six with a turbocharged 2.0-liter four and introduced the newer fob.
- Fobs for 2013-2015 use a Hitag Pro (ID49) transponder instead of the earlier ID46.
Programming a 2013 LR2 key
These trucks use a keyless vehicle module (KVM). If the module is unlocked, a new fob is learned over OBD-II; if it has been locked, its program flash may need to be read, modified and rewritten before any key can be added. We check the module's status at the start so you know which route applies before committing.
Spare keys are usually routine; all-keys-lost or a locked KVM can require bench work on the module.
Lost every key to your LR2?
- Gather your documents and the VIN. Call with the year, make, model and VIN if you can read it through the windshield, plus where the car is parked. Those details let us confirm whether your Land Rover LR2 can be done on-site and bring the right key, so the first trip is the only trip.
- Get into the vehicle without damage. Entry comes before key-making because we need access to the ignition, the OBD-II port and sometimes the documents in the glove box. We take care with weather stripping, door frames and paint, and we confirm the dash VIN matches your registration before going any further.
- Originate a new key from the car. Originating a key means building it without a sample. The door lock usually reveals most of the cuts; any it doesn't are worked out by test-cutting and trying the ignition or a second lock. The finished blade should feel like a factory key, not a forced fit.
- Program the key to the immobilizer. All-keys-lost programming often takes longer than adding a key, because the car has no trusted key to authorize the change. We follow the procedure your Land Rover LR2 requires, then confirm the engine starts and keeps running and the remote or keyless functions respond.
- Erase missing keys and add a spare. Once the car starts, we remove the lost keys from memory wherever the system allows, so they can't start the engine if someone finds them. Making a second key during the same visit costs much less than a repeat all-keys-lost call down the road.
Why a spare key pays for itself
- Electronics fail without warning. A fob dropped on concrete, run through the washing machine or soaked at the pool can quit for good. With a second programmed key, that's an annoyance you fix on your own schedule, not a stranded car that needs attention today.
- Two drivers sharing one key is a daily negotiation. A second key lets a partner, teenager or coworker use the vehicle without handing keys back and forth in parking lots, and it means one person losing their key ring doesn't leave the whole household stuck.
- Some vehicles make it hard to add a key once you're down to one. Certain immobilizer systems let an owner program an extra key on-board only when two working keys are present, so a second key preserves the easy options for later and avoids a full reset.
Dealer or mobile locksmith?
Price and parts are the other half of the comparison. Dealers typically sell factory keys only and charge their posted service rates for programming. We offer factory keys where it matters and quality aftermarket alternatives where they perform well, and the quote covers cutting, programming and the trip, with nothing tacked on at the end. Timing differs too. Dealer service departments generally keep business hours, while we take automotive calls every day from 6:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., which covers early commutes and late evenings. We're closed overnight, and we'll be upfront if your timing means the dealer or a next-day visit is the better plan. Neither option is wrong; the right one depends on your LR2 and your schedule.
LR2 key battery
If a new CR2032 doesn't bring the fob back, the battery wasn't the problem. Common culprits include a battery holder whose solder joints have cracked from drops, contacts corroded by moisture, worn rubber button pads that no longer reach the circuit, or a board damaged by water. We can test whether the fob is transmitting at all and inspect the board closely. Sometimes a new shell or a resoldered holder solves it; sometimes the fob has to be replaced and programmed. Meanwhile, the car can usually still be started with the fob held at the backup spot described in the owner's manual.
How the job works
- Identify the exact key your LR2 uses. Every job starts with the VIN, the trim and a look at any key you still have. From those we confirm the keyway, the transponder or smart-key chip, the remote frequency, the FCC ID and the button layout. Two Land Rover LR2 keys that look identical can carry different electronics, so this step keeps the wrong part from ever reaching the car.
- Verify ownership before any work. California holds licensed locksmiths responsible for knowing whose car they're making keys for. We record your name, the VIN and the plate on a work order. If you aren't the registered owner, you'll need the owner's written authorization along with your own photo ID before we begin.
- Get the key code or decode the lock. If you still have a working key, we can read its cuts directly and check them against the factory depths for the Land Rover keyway. A worn key gets corrected back to spec during this step, so the new key turns crisply instead of reproducing years of wear in a fresh piece of metal.
- Cut the blade on-site. Our van carries a code-cutting machine that handles both traditional edge-cut blades and the laser-cut, side-milled profiles common on newer keys. The blade is cut to the code, then test-fitted in a door lock and the ignition or emergency keyhole to confirm smooth operation before any programming begins.
- Program the chip, remote or smart key. Programming tells the car's computers that the new key belongs to the vehicle. Transponder chips are added to the immobilizer, remote buttons to the body control module, and proximity fobs to the keyless system. If a step requires dealer-only access on your LR2, you'll have heard that before we arrived, not halfway through the job.
- Test everything and clear out old keys. Before we leave, every function gets checked: doors, trunk or liftgate, panic button, remote range, engine start, and the emergency blade in the driver's door. If keys are missing, we delete them from the car's memory where the system allows, so a lost key can no longer start the engine.
What affects the price of an LR2 key
- The type of key. Price follows complexity. The more the key does, the more it costs to replace: brass blade, then chip, then remote buttons, then full keyless entry and push-button start. If your LR2 came with different key styles by trim, the one your car actually uses is the one that sets the quote.
- Factory or aftermarket parts. Some owners want an exact factory match; others just want a dependable key that starts the car. Both are reasonable choices. The part you pick changes the quote, so we lay out the options side by side, with the trade-offs in fit, button feel and long-term durability, before you decide.
- All keys lost or adding a key. On some vehicles, losing the last key changes the programming entirely, from a quick add-key procedure to a full immobilizer reset or a module read on the bench. That extra labor shows up in the price, and it's the strongest argument for keeping a spare in the house.
- Travel, timing and extra repairs. Sometimes a key problem is really a lock problem: an ignition that won't turn even with the right key, or a door cylinder that has been jammed for years. Fixing those is separate work. We point them out, explain the options, and quote the whole job up front so the bill holds no surprises.
Call (951) 903-3193 with your VIN and the keys you still have, and we'll quote the job before any work starts.
Common Land Rover key problems
- Late-model Land Rovers have been frequent theft targets, and JLR has answered with software updates and locked modules. Those changes protect the vehicle but can make an aftermarket spare slower to program, or send the job back to the dealer.
- Land Rover electronics are sensitive to low system voltage. A tired 12-volt battery can make a good fob go unrecognized or cause a no-start that looks like a key fault, so we test the battery before replacing anything.
- P38A Range Rover and Discovery II owners sometimes find the remote handset dead or out of sync, which can leave the alarm armed and the engine immobilized. The EKA code entered at the driver's door lock is the factory fallback.
Tips from a mobile locksmith
- When a key's head cracks or its blade bends, replace it before it fails. A transponder chip can slip out of a split head, and a bent blade can break off inside the ignition or door lock, turning a simple key replacement into an extraction and repair job. Small symptoms are the inexpensive time to act.
- Learn your car's dead-fob start method now, in the driveway, rather than in a dark parking lot later. Depending on the make, you hold the fob against the start button or place it in a marked pocket in the console. Also find the hidden keyhole on the driver's door handle and practice using the emergency blade.
- Never hide a spare key or fob on the outside of the car. Magnetic boxes in wheel wells and under bumpers are the first places a thief checks, and with a proximity fob, a hidden key can let anyone open the doors and drive away. Keep the spare at home or with someone you trust.
Proof of ownership
Making car keys is regulated work in California. Locksmiths are licensed and overseen by the Bureau of Security and Investigative Services under the Locksmith Act, Business and Professions Code section 6980 and following, and Julian's Locksmith holds company license LCO7891. Verification protects you more than anyone: a locksmith who will make a key for whoever asks will also make one for someone who wants your car. We record your name, the vehicle and its VIN on a work order, and we politely decline jobs where ownership can't be established. You can look up our license at search.dca.ca.gov.
Need a 2013 Land Rover LR2 key?
Locked out, keyless, or just tired of a fob that only works half the time? Julian's Locksmith can help with your LR2 in Southern California. Have your registration and photo ID ready, call (951) 903-3193, and we'll give you an honest answer about what we can do on-site and what it will cost before we head your way.
Frequently asked questions
Can a locksmith make a key for a 2013 Land Rover LR2?
We can usually add spare keys on site; some situations, such as all keys lost on certain trims, need extra steps or a dealer-supplied part. Spare keys are usually routine; all-keys-lost or a locked KVM can require bench work on the module. The 2013 LR2 uses a smart proximity key with push-button start.
Do you come to Southern California to make car keys, or do I bring the car to you?
We come to you. Julian's Locksmith is a mobile-only service, so the van drives to wherever the car is parked in Southern California: your driveway, an apartment lot, a workplace or a shopping center. That matters most when every key is lost, because it saves you a tow. Just make sure we'll have room to work beside the driver's door and that the vehicle is accessible when we arrive.
Is an aftermarket key as good as a factory key for a Land Rover LR2?
For many vehicles, a quality aftermarket key works just like the original: it starts the car, operates the locks and fits the keyways. Differences tend to show up in housing durability, button feel and sometimes remote range. For certain smart keys, a factory fob is the more reliable choice. We'll tell you honestly which options we'd put on our own car for your LR2 and let you make the call.
What happens to the key I lost? Can it still start my Land Rover?
When we program new keys, we can usually erase lost keys from the immobilizer, which stops them from starting the engine. On some systems the car only remembers the keys present during programming, so the lost one drops off automatically. Keep in mind that a lost key's metal blade can still open the doors, so if it went missing with something that shows your address, ask about rekeying the door locks.
Why does my LR2 crank but not start with a newly cut key?
That pattern points to the immobilizer, not the engine. The blade is cut correctly, so the ignition turns, but the car doesn't recognize the chip and blocks fuel or spark. A flashing security light usually confirms it. The key either wasn't programmed, carries the wrong chip type, or is an unprogrammed copy from a hardware store. Programming a correct key to your 2013 Land Rover LR2 resolves it.
Can you make an LR2 key from the VIN alone?
The VIN is a starting point, not a finished key. For many vehicles, the factory key code can be obtained from the VIN through manufacturer channels once ownership is verified, which lets us cut a blade that matches your locks. The chip or fob still has to be programmed at the vehicle, so we need access to the car itself. Where no code is available, we decode a lock instead.
Is the 2013 Land Rover LR2 push-to-start?
Yes. The 2013 LR2 uses push-button start with a smart proximity key, so a replacement has to be a programmed smart fob, not just a cut blade. The fob also hides a mechanical emergency blade for the doors.
What battery does a 2013 Land Rover LR2 key use?
Fobs for the 2013 LR2 use a CR2032 coin cell. Replace it when range drops or the car shows a key-battery warning. If the fob still fails with a fresh battery, the board, buttons or programming may be the problem, which we can test on site.
