Automotive locksmith
2013 Audi RS 5 Key Replacement
Short answer: The 2013 Audi RS 5 belongs to the RS 5 8T (1st generation) and uses a remote head key and a smart proximity key with push-button start. We can usually add spare keys on site; some situations, such as all keys lost on certain trims, need extra steps or a dealer-supplied part. Julian's Locksmith cuts and programs RS 5 keys on site; call (951) 903-3193 with your VIN for a quote.

The usual dealership route for an Audi RS 5 key goes like this: order the part by VIN, wait for it to arrive, book a service slot, and if no key is left, pay to tow the car in. Julian's Locksmith takes a different approach in Southern California. Our van carries the cutting machine, the key blanks and the diagnostic tools, so the work happens in your driveway or parking space instead of a service bay. For many 2013 Audi RS 5 keys, that means one visit from phone call to finished key. Where a vehicle truly needs the dealer, we say so up front rather than send someone out to try. Either way, you'll know the plan and the price before anything is cut or programmed.
2013 RS 5 key specs
| Generation | 8T (1st generation), 2013–2015 |
|---|---|
| Ignition | Turn-key or push-button, depending on trim |
| Key types | Remote head key; Smart proximity key (push-to-start) |
| Key blade | HU66 emergency blade |
| Key battery | CR2032 |
| Locksmith support | Spares yes; some cases need extra steps |
The first US RS 5 coupe and cabriolet use the B8-platform four-button fob with an emergency blade. Cars with advanced key start with a button and unlock by touch; cars without it start by pushing the fob into the dash slot. Electronically the key matches A5 and S5 fobs of the same type, with 8T0 and 8K0 959 754 part numbers, so slot-only versus comfort-access matters more than the RS badge.
What's specific to the 2013 RS 5
2013 was the first model year of the RS 5 8T (1st generation). Early-production cars sometimes use different part numbers than later ones, so for a 2013 Audi RS 5 we confirm the exact key from the VIN or the old key's FCC ID before cutting anything. At roughly 13 years old, a 2013 Audi RS 5 has usually seen real wear. Ignition and door cylinders on high-mileage cars wear along with the key, so we cut new keys to factory code rather than copying a worn key. Fob cases crack, buttons wear through and solder joints loosen at this age, so a new shell or a replacement remote often beats repairing the old one. Many have changed hands more than once, so erasing keys you can't account for is worth doing during the visit.
Smart-key cars like the 2013 RS 5 can be targeted with relay attacks that extend the fob's signal from inside your home, so keep fobs away from exterior walls or in a signal-blocking pouch, and have any missing fob erased from the car.
Key options for the 2013 Audi RS 5
- Remote head key. A remote-head key puts two separate systems in one piece: a cut blade with a transponder chip that the immobilizer reads, and a small circuit board with buttons that signals the body control module to work the door locks. On a 2013 Audi RS 5 with this style of key, each side is programmed separately. That explains some confusing failures. If the remote stops working but the car still starts, the problem is usually the battery or the remote board. If the buttons work but the engine won't run, look at the chip side. Knowing which half failed tells us whether you need a repair, a reprogram or a whole new key.
- Smart proximity key (push-to-start). Proximity keys bring a security trade-off worth understanding. Because the fob is always listening, thieves with relay equipment can stretch its signal from inside your house to the car in the driveway. Keeping the fob away from exterior walls, or in a signal-blocking pouch, closes that gap, and some fobs offer a sleep mode described in the owner's manual. If a smart key for your 2013 Audi RS 5 is lost or stolen, programming a replacement is the moment to delete the missing fob from the car's memory. And be wary of used fobs from online sellers: a lot of them are locked to the vehicle they came from and can't be reprogrammed to yours.
How the Audi immobilizer works on the RS 5
Every Audi sold in the US from 2000 on has a transponder immobilizer, but the system behind it changed several times, and that history decides how a new key gets made. Through the mid-2000s, most models used a Megamos ID48 chip in an HU66 flip key, with the immobilizer data stored in the instrument cluster. The A6, Q7 and A8 that followed kept a flip key but added an entry-and-start module that has to be read during programming. Starting with the 2008 A5 and 2009 A4, the B8 family switched to a rectangular fob and moved immobilizer and keyless functions into a comfort control module known in the trade as BCM2; the C7 A6, first-generation A7 and D4 A8 use the same module family. Smaller MQB cars such as the 2015-2020 A3, the third-generation TT and the 2019-2025 Q3 go back to a cluster-based system. The 2017-and-later MLB Evo models protect their data far more heavily, and the newest Audis register keys through Audi's online system. US-market Audi remotes run on 315 MHz.
- The first RS 5 used a 4.2-liter V8 and was sold in the US for 2013 through 2015.
- The RS 5 uses the same key family as the A5 and S5 of its era, so a parts match depends on the fob type, not the badge.
Programming a 2013 RS 5 key
RS 5 key programming is the BCM2 job common to every B8-platform Audi: read the comfort module's data, through OBD-II where possible or on the bench where not, then build and learn the new key. All-keys-lost requires removing the module. We keep the car on a battery maintainer while we work, since voltage drops can interrupt module communication.
Spares are typically fine on site; all-keys-lost requires a bench read of the comfort module, and some units may need the dealer.
Lost every key to your RS 5?
- Gather your documents and the VIN. Find your registration or title and a government photo ID in the same name. Note the VIN, which is printed on the driver's side of the dashboard and usually on your insurance card. If the paperwork is locked in the car, tell us; we'll open the vehicle first and check it there.
- Get into the vehicle without damage. If the car is locked, we open it with non-destructive tools such as an inflatable wedge and a long-reach rod, or by picking the door lock. Some vehicles need a careful approach to avoid triggering the alarm, which can interfere with programming later.
- Originate a new key from the car. With no key to copy, the cuts come from the vehicle itself. We retrieve the key code through manufacturer channels where possible, or decode a door lock with a pick-decoder tool. Then we cut the blade on our code machine and confirm it turns the lock smoothly.
- Program the key to the immobilizer. Next, the new key is introduced to the car's security system. Many vehicles allow this through the OBD-II port with a PIN or security procedure. Some all-keys-lost cases require reading a module on the bench, and a few platforms only allow dealer programming, which we'll tell you up front.
- Erase missing keys and add a spare. Once the car starts, we remove the lost keys from memory wherever the system allows, so they can't start the engine if someone finds them. Making a second key during the same visit costs much less than a repeat all-keys-lost call down the road.
Why a spare key pays for itself
- Two drivers sharing one key is a daily negotiation. A second key lets a partner, teenager or coworker use the vehicle without handing keys back and forth in parking lots, and it means one person losing their key ring doesn't leave the whole household stuck.
- When you sell or trade in the vehicle, buyers and dealers expect two keys. A missing key can come up during an appraisal or a private-sale negotiation, so having both on hand keeps the conversation about the car, not about what it will cost the next owner to replace one.
- Electronics fail without warning. A fob dropped on concrete, run through the washing machine or soaked at the pool can quit for good. With a second programmed key, that's an annoyance you fix on your own schedule, not a stranded car that needs attention today.
Dealer or mobile locksmith?
Price and parts are the other half of the comparison. Dealers typically sell factory keys only and charge their posted service rates for programming. We offer factory keys where it matters and quality aftermarket alternatives where they perform well, and the quote covers cutting, programming and the trip, with nothing tacked on at the end. Timing differs too. Dealer service departments generally keep business hours, while we take automotive calls every day from 6:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., which covers early commutes and late evenings. We're closed overnight, and we'll be upfront if your timing means the dealer or a next-day visit is the better plan. Neither option is wrong; the right one depends on your RS 5 and your schedule.
RS 5 key battery
If a new CR2032 doesn't bring the fob back, the battery wasn't the problem. Common culprits include a battery holder whose solder joints have cracked from drops, contacts corroded by moisture, worn rubber button pads that no longer reach the circuit, or a board damaged by water. We can test whether the fob is transmitting at all and inspect the board closely. Sometimes a new shell or a resoldered holder solves it; sometimes the fob has to be replaced and programmed. Meanwhile, the car can usually still be started with the fob held at the backup spot described in the owner's manual.
How the job works
- Identify the exact key your RS 5 uses. Every job starts with the VIN, the trim and a look at any key you still have. From those we confirm the keyway, the transponder or smart-key chip, the remote frequency, the FCC ID and the button layout. Two Audi RS 5 keys that look identical can carry different electronics, so this step keeps the wrong part from ever reaching the car.
- Verify ownership before any work. California holds licensed locksmiths responsible for knowing whose car they're making keys for. We record your name, the VIN and the plate on a work order. If you aren't the registered owner, you'll need the owner's written authorization along with your own photo ID before we begin.
- Get the key code or decode the lock. A key is cut from a code, not a guess. When the factory code can be retrieved through manufacturer channels after ownership is verified, we use it. When it can't, we decode a door lock with a pick-decoder tool that reads the wafer positions without damaging anything, then work out any missing cuts.
- Cut the blade on-site. Our van carries a code-cutting machine that handles both traditional edge-cut blades and the laser-cut, side-milled profiles common on newer keys. The blade is cut to the code, then test-fitted in a door lock and the ignition or emergency keyhole to confirm smooth operation before any programming begins.
- Program the chip, remote or smart key. Programming tells the car's computers that the new key belongs to the vehicle. Transponder chips are added to the immobilizer, remote buttons to the body control module, and proximity fobs to the keyless system. If a step requires dealer-only access on your RS 5, you'll have heard that before we arrived, not halfway through the job.
- Test everything and clear out old keys. Before we leave, every function gets checked: doors, trunk or liftgate, panic button, remote range, engine start, and the emergency blade in the driver's door. If keys are missing, we delete them from the car's memory where the system allows, so a lost key can no longer start the engine.
What affects the price of an RS 5 key
- The type of key. Price follows complexity. The more the key does, the more it costs to replace: brass blade, then chip, then remote buttons, then full keyless entry and push-button start. If your RS 5 came with different key styles by trim, the one your car actually uses is the one that sets the quote.
- Factory or aftermarket parts. Factory keys and fobs carry the manufacturer's part number and usually the highest parts cost. Quality aftermarket keys use compatible electronics at a lower price and work well on many vehicles. We tell you which options we trust for your car, and where an aftermarket version has known range or fit issues, we steer you to OEM.
- All keys lost or adding a key. Adding a key while a working one is in hand is the simpler job. With every key gone, we may have to open the car, decode a lock to originate the cuts, and run a longer programming routine, so all-keys-lost work takes more time and costs more.
- Blade style and cutting. The blade still matters on keyless cars, because the emergency insert has to fit the door lock. Cutting by code is standard for us. Decoding a door lock when no key or code exists adds time, and so does progressing any cuts the door lock doesn't show.
Call (951) 903-3193 with your VIN and the keys you still have, and we'll quote the job before any work starts.
Common Audi key problems
- On many Audis the driver's lock cylinder hides under a cap on the door handle and almost never gets used, so it can seize. Turning it with the emergency blade a few times a year keeps it ready for a dead 12-volt battery.
- Slot-start Audis, meaning B8-generation A4, A5 and Q5 models without advanced key, can develop a worn ignition slot that won't read or release the fob. That is an ignition switch repair, not a key problem.
- A weak fob battery on push-button models triggers a key-not-detected warning. The transponder works without battery power, so holding the fob at the backup spot shown in your owner's manual usually lets the car start until you replace the cell.
Tips from a mobile locksmith
- Southern California heat is hard on keys. Fob batteries drain faster, plastic housings turn brittle, and rubber button pads crack when a key spends summer afternoons on a dashboard or in a sunny cup holder. Carry the fob with you or keep it shaded, and replace batteries before summer rather than after they fail.
- When a key's head cracks or its blade bends, replace it before it fails. A transponder chip can slip out of a split head, and a bent blade can break off inside the ignition or door lock, turning a simple key replacement into an extraction and repair job. Small symptoms are the inexpensive time to act.
- If your vehicle has a proximity key, think about where it sleeps at night. A fob hanging by the front door can sit within range of relay equipment used to open and start cars from outside. A drawer deeper inside the house, a signal-blocking pouch, or the fob's own sleep mode reduces that risk considerably.
Proof of ownership
Not every situation fits the simple case, so here's how we handle the common exceptions. For a leased or financed vehicle, a registration that lists you as the registered owner or lessee works with your ID. If you just bought the car, bring the signed title or bill of sale along with your ID. For a company or fleet vehicle, we need written authorization from the business plus the driver's ID. If the car belongs to a family member, the registered owner should be present or provide signed permission and a copy of their ID. Rental vehicles go through the rental company.
Need a 2013 Audi RS 5 key?
Don't wait until the last key disappears. If your Audi RS 5 is down to one key, or the one you have is falling apart, call (951) 903-3193. We're a licensed California locksmith, license LCO7891, serving Southern California and the rest of the Inland Empire with mobile car key service every day from 6:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.
Frequently asked questions
Can a locksmith make a key for a 2013 Audi RS 5?
We can usually add spare keys on site; some situations, such as all keys lost on certain trims, need extra steps or a dealer-supplied part. Spares are typically fine on site; all-keys-lost requires a bench read of the comfort module, and some units may need the dealer. The 2013 RS 5 uses a remote head key and a smart proximity key with push-button start.
How much does a replacement key for a 2013 Audi RS 5 cost?
It depends on the key type, whether you choose a factory or aftermarket part, whether any working key is left, and how the Audi security system handles programming. A spare for a car with a working key costs less than an all-keys-lost job that needs lock decoding or module work. Call with the VIN and we'll give you a specific quote before we drive out, and nothing changes once we arrive unless you approve additional work.
Can you fix a broken Audi key instead of replacing it?
Often, yes. If the shell is cracked, the buttons are worn or the blade snapped, but the circuit board and chip are healthy, we can transfer the electronics into a new housing and cut a fresh blade to your key code. Your existing programming stays intact. If the board has been damaged by water or impact, a repair won't last, and we'll recommend a new programmed key instead.
Can you make a key for my RS 5 if I've lost every key?
In most cases, yes. We verify ownership, open the car without damage if needed, originate a key from the key code or by decoding a door lock, and program it to the immobilizer on-site. A few platforms restrict all-keys-lost programming to the dealer, and some need a module read on the bench before a new key is accepted. We'll tell you which applies to your 2013 Audi RS 5 when you call.
What happens to the key I lost? Can it still start my Audi?
When we program new keys, we can usually erase lost keys from the immobilizer, which stops them from starting the engine. On some systems the car only remembers the keys present during programming, so the lost one drops off automatically. Keep in mind that a lost key's metal blade can still open the doors, so if it went missing with something that shows your address, ask about rekeying the door locks.
Is an aftermarket key as good as a factory key for an Audi RS 5?
For many vehicles, a quality aftermarket key works just like the original: it starts the car, operates the locks and fits the keyways. Differences tend to show up in housing durability, button feel and sometimes remote range. For certain smart keys, a factory fob is the more reliable choice. We'll tell you honestly which options we'd put on our own car for your RS 5 and let you make the call.
Is the 2013 Audi RS 5 push-to-start?
It depends on the trim. Some 2013 RS 5 trims have push-button start with a smart key, while others use a turn-key ignition. The quickest way to tell is the start button on the dash, or your VIN, which we can decode when you call.
What battery does a 2013 Audi RS 5 key use?
Fobs for the 2013 RS 5 use a CR2032 coin cell. Replace it when range drops or the car shows a key-battery warning. If the fob still fails with a fresh battery, the board, buttons or programming may be the problem, which we can test on site.
